What makes a climbing route a classic? Is it enough that the route has great moves? Or the fact that many have climbed it?
When talking about book classics, synonyms are eternity, timelessness and freshness. Could the same thinking model be used for climbing routes as well?
"A classic takes time, feels current and important at different times and in different places. Its themes are believable, touching, relatable and impressive even in another environment. Perhaps this is possible in works that achieve something common to all people."
The classic routes are popular
Certain routes come up in conversations when route recommendations are asked and given. The individual moves of these lines or even the whole whole is something so special that the information deserves to pass from one climber to another. Routes that have become popular with more climbers are usually those that can be navigated by several different climbing styles. They are therefore suitable for different body types, which makes them more approachable. So does a classic consist of a continuum? Because of its features, the route is recommended to the next ascent, who in turn tells about it. In some cases, we are even ready to return to the route ourselves.
"The classic requires that the route has a reputation, many have climbed it and they want to climb it."
To quote a long-distance climber
Kasviken's classic Angel Direct
Diamonds are Forever
Based on an Instagram survey conducted in May, it became clear that there are plenty of classics in Finland's bouldering mecca, Åland. Although there were more answers to the question "What do you think are the classic routes in Åland", they were mostly consistent. From this it can be concluded that certain lines have found their way into climbers' to do and tick lists. The routes that have been opened over the years and that have been taken over by the classic route are
- Tooth RIP 6C can be found at Djupviksgrottorna (more commonly known as Grotta) and of course at Hammas stone
- Martikainen 6C+ & Supermartikainen 7C are also located on Grottan and the stone is named after the classics Martikakai
- Voodoo 7A is the favorite roof of many, which can be found at Geta Life in Grotton
- Angel direct 7A is a straightforward but fine line located on Kasviken's Angel rock
- Hallonpingvin 6C is located in the armpit of Hammas RIP in Grottan
- Dodo 8A+: location Kasviken, stone Dodo
- Frispel 7B can also be found in Kasviken, a map towards the Game Over stone
- Game over 7C on arvaatko missä? 😉
- Green Dragon 6C found on Grottan's Grottan stone (confusing)
- Maneter 7A is a full body jamming classic located in South Grottan and the stone is of course Maneter
- Pictor 6C can be found after a short hike on Fågelberget's Puerto Rico rock
Other mentioned routes are Jotain dullattava (6B), Paskapäivä (8A), Pop the Glock (7B+), Geta life (7B+), Ålander (7C) and Sabrage (6C). What do you think, will your upcoming project be on the classics list?
Several classics can be found on the Hammas stone
Voodoo and Baby Voodoo – gems of Geta Life