What makes a climbing route a classic? Is it enough that the route has great moves? Or the fact that many have climbed it?
When talking about book classics, synonyms are eternity, timelessness and freshness. Could the same thinking model be used for climbing routes as well?
“Klassikko kestää aikaa, tuntuu ajankohtaiselta ja tärkeältä eri aikoina ja eri paikoissa. Sen teemat ovat uskottavia, koskettavia, samaistuttavia ja vaikuttavia myös jossain toisessa ympäristössä. Kenties tämä on mahdollista teoksissa, jotka saavuttavat jotain kaikille ihmisille yhteistä.”
The classic routes are popular
Certain routes come up in conversations when route recommendations are asked and given. The individual moves of these lines or even the whole whole is something so special that the information deserves to pass from one climber to another. Routes that have become popular with more climbers are usually those that can be navigated by several different climbing styles. They are therefore suitable for different body types, which makes them more approachable. So does a classic consist of a continuum? Because of its features, the route is recommended to the next ascent, who in turn tells about it. In some cases, we are even ready to return to the route ourselves.
“Klassikko vaatii, että reitillä on maine, moni on kiivennyt sen ja sitä halutaan kiivetä.”
To quote a long-distance climber
Kasviken's classic Angel Direct
Diamonds are Forever
Toukokuussa tehdyn Instagram-kyselyn pohjalta selvisi, että Suomen bouldermekassa, Ahvenanmaalla klassikoita riittää. Vaikka vastauksia kysymykseen “Mitkä ovat mielestäsi Ahvenanmaan klassikkoreitit” tulikin useampia, ne olivat pääosin yhdenmukaisia. Tästä voi päätellä, että tietyt linjat ovat löytäneet tiensä kiipeilijöiden to do- ja tikkilistoille. Vuosien varrella avatut ja klassikkotiettelin itselleen napanneet reitit ovat
- Tooth RIP 6C can be found at Djupviksgrottorna (more commonly known as Grotta) and of course at Hammas stone
- Martikainen 6C+ & Supermartikainen 7C are also located on Grottan and the stone is named after the classics Martikakai
- Voodoo 7A is the favorite roof of many, which can be found at Geta Life in Grotton
- Angel direct 7A is a straightforward but fine line located on Kasviken's Angel rock
- Hallonpingvin 6C is located in the armpit of Hammas RIP in Grottan
- Dodo 8A+: location Kasviken, stone Dodo
- Frispel 7B can also be found in Kasviken, a map towards the Game Over stone
- Game over 7C on arvaatko missä? 😉
- Green Dragon 6C found on Grottan's Grottan stone (confusing)
- Maneter 7A is a full body jamming classic located in South Grottan and the stone is of course Maneter
- Pictor 6C can be found after a short hike on Fågelberget's Puerto Rico rock
Other mentioned routes are Jotain dullattava (6B), Paskapäivä (8A), Pop the Glock (7B+), Geta life (7B+), Ålander (7C) and Sabrage (6C). What do you think, will your upcoming project be on the classics list?
Several classics can be found on the Hammas stone
Voodoo and Baby Voodoo – gems of Geta Life