A year ago, I ate my words about climbers returning to Lofoten time and time again, as the area turned out to be the most beautiful place I had visited. It should have been guessed that it would be the same with Bohuslän. What wonder drives a group to the west coast of Sweden to one rope-length tree trails? Isn't Olhava, Kustavi and the wonders of the East enough?
Well, no, because Bohuslän's milieu is a mix of Norway and Åland. The concentration of climbing rocks is staggering and the quality of the lines something incomprehensible. How can there be so much good climbing in such a small area? I fell in love with the place immediately, because when tree climbing is close to your heart, you won't find a better place in Europe to jam a length of rope.
Galgebergen. Fields and rocks.
Joona and Maija's invitation to join us in Sweden came at just the right time. Our winter season had continued for the last nine months with skiing and winter climbing, except for a short trip to Spain at the turn of the year, when we had to lie on the sandy beach with fleece on and wool socks on. At the end of June, all I can think of here is the heat and rock climbing, which would combine Bohuslä brilliantly.
The ferry from Turku to Stockholm and a good five-hour drive through nighttime Sweden in buffets seemed to tire us out, but the granite boulders glistening in the morning twilight sharpened our concentration enough that we safely reached the hut maintained by the Bohuslän climbing club to camp. At the climbing lodge you can find a tent site, toilets, running (albeit radon-containing) water and other necessary amenities needed by tree climbers for the negligible price of six euros. You can also get to the house by paying a little more. Actually, the only minus of the climbing hut was the lack of parking spaces. You could always be excited whether the car would fit in the parking lot in the evening or whether the hill below the hut would be accessible for walking.
The climbing lodge is the most affordable accommodation option in Bohar, unless you count the frowned-upon bus shelter.
At the beginning, I meant to write an information sheet about climbing in Bohuslän and tips on the best routes, but after thinking about it in more detail, after nine days of climbing, you can't really do that. Especially when other Finnish climbing blogs already have such excellent tips with the experience of several trips. For example, from the ``Revontulia'' and ``Haukkari'' blogs.
Before the trip, I asked Lauri Hämäläinen for recommendations on three-star lines and I got quite a comprehensive list of routes that stuck in my mind. I started quilting that list one route at a time, without fear of bad climbing. However, can there even be bad climbing in Bohuslän?
Villskudd lays the groundwork for the list of the world's 6 most spectacular routes. Photo: Joona Sipi.
And Jungfrun isn't even on the weaker list of the best four. Ella and Joona at the last one of the evening.
Välseröd also has Hans Christian Doseth's classic Slimline. A great finger crack for sure. By the way, the lake next to the meadow sector of Kallio is one of the best swimming spots I came across on the trip. Photo: Maija Sipi.
Ella on top of the rock of Brapperberget, or Lyse Kyrka.
Brappersberget's cleanest routes are the clearest crack lines. Other tracks should be approached with reservations. Unless you're interested in climbing the Vitosen släb with a couple of micro wedges.
Maija on the same rock.
The south wall of Galgeberget is quite a mess in the summer heat, but there you can find e.g. Nelonen's splitter crack and Q.Robur, an excellent viton.
Of course, you can also find shadow at Pysspunka. All the routes in the same sector looked great.
Fjällback offers nice scenery for a rest day.
BD's C4s, which are 10 percent lighter, went on the trip for testing. At least the classic hasn't lost its grip after the tuning!
Suomiposse at the climbing lodge.
Hallinden was remembered most for the rocks in the area. The steep wall next to the huge high main wall is perhaps the coolest tree rock anywhere. Megalines on a steep slope next to it. Joona chasing one of them. Photo: Ella Hellberg.
Ella doubles Prismaster's middle section. We climbed the route in three rope lengths in the spirit of training.
Ella on the airy end of the same route.
Pekka Svinger Kosten has a great goal. Lauri's recommendations do not disappoint!
Fingers crossed for Goa Brunette. An absolutely amazing line in Hallinden.
The return drink is Brown Cow, i.e. cola and milk. You can infer something from the obvious. Photo: Maija Sipi.
Ella Vettekullen's warmth with cracks. These were the only ones I didn't like. Photo: Joona Sipi.
``It's like in Yosemite!'' Bergkristis Polska is perhaps the world's best 6-.
Maija with one of Häller's classics. At least the Canape route can be recommended next door. However, you should be careful that the rope does not land on the cow's steaming...namely, the rope cannot be washed in the lake for quite a long time afterwards.
The obligatory Tor Line efforts are over. Joona pulls the route nicely on his first attempt of the year.
I, on the other hand, show how not to climb the line. Of course, it went with a second punch when I remembered to use my legs as well. Photo: Maija Sipi.
The only bad thing about the summer trip was that the days ran out. Next time, you have to reserve a month so that you have time to make the most of the area. And after that, maybe you'll dare to write a wider tip package about the best places and routes in the area, without forgetting logistics and other aspects of life.